This time of year is always great here in San Diego because there's a steady influx of friends that come to visit. This was the final log session I documented this summer; blanketed under cloudy skies, immersed in warm water and alongside some of my favorite humans.
BLACK'S BEACH, LA JOLLA, CALIFORNIA.
Just before cold water upwelling dropped the local water temperature down drastically, we were fortunate enough to have a fun beach day up in Cardiff-by-the-Sea.
Surfers: Kahana Kalama & Ryan Burch.
We spent a morning playing around in the shorebreak preparing for summer days to come.
The South Shore of Oahu is not only a picturesque place to shoot photos, but it's also a stretch of sacred coast that was the backdrop for early surfing in the 1800s. We were fortunate to get a fun, morning session during my trip to Oahu last month.
Surfers: Kahana Kalama, John Hook, & Karu Kyosuke.
There hasn't been a shortage of waves in San Diego lately. Here are some photos from back to back sessions at Black's last week.
Black's Beach in autumn is pretty unreal. The water is still warm and the waves finally start picking up on a consistent basis. This ended up being the last session I documented before the seasons turned and San Diego got noticeably colder. I'm definitely looking forward to days like this once these storms pass.
It's the first week of November and the ocean temperature is still unusually warm. Last Monday, our buddy's from Slowtide paid us a visit during a significant pulse in swell that was seen all over the county. So, we went for a splash in the near tropical waters and washed off the Monday blues with them. After the session we put their new, art-inspired towels to the test. I highly recommend getting your hands on one or all eight of them ASAP.
Warm water, record breaking heat, and motion in the ocean is the perfect recipe for early morning antics with the crew. Here are some images to prove how spoiled we are here in San Diego.
San Diego experienced quite the heat wave last week. When it's eighty-degrees before noon, flocking to the beach is the only way to properly cool off. The consistent flurry of waves was another justification for logging so many hours in the water.
The last two mornings have been weird down here in San Diego. The waves have been dismal and the weather has been strange. These photos look like they were all shot in the same day, when in reality one morning was rainy and we had the spot to ourselves, and the other was muggy and crowded. Summer lives on.
Earlier this month I ordered a new waterproof film camera to use during the copious amounts of time I spend in the water this time of year. My friends, Taylor & Eveline, came down to San Diego for a quick weekend jaunt and I snapped these photos of them with my new Minolta Weathermatic DL 35. The camera's lens versatility was its main selling point. You can switch between a 35mm and 50mm with the click of a button.
This is the second roll I have developed and I cannot wait to log some more hours in the water with this bugger.
Film: Kodak UltraMax 400.
The water temperature has been all over the map in recent weeks here in San Diego. It wasn't until this quick session in La Jolla that I realized I can hang up my full suit for a few months. Cheers to summer and warmer weather to come.
Cliff Kapono is the ultimate subject for a surf photographer. His style is fluid and extremely photogenic, which makes for some great imagery regardless of the conditions. I shot these photos of Cliff during a late afternoon session last winter.
Cliff just finished up an amazing short film for Surfer Magazine + RED Camera's film series, REDirect. Cliff along with his friend and fellow filmmaker, Jensen Young-Sik, created a breathtaking piece that tells an ancient story about the first interaction between Native Hawaiians and Native Americans on the California coast. I highly recommend watching Cliff and Jensen's film, WATU.
I messed around with a Nikon AW-1 yesterday in Cardiff. It's a pretty nifty little camera, especially when the water's warm and there are waves.
Surfer: Caleb Roe.